1 cup black olives, such as Nicoise or Nyons 1 small garlic clove, peeled 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and pressed dry between towels 2 salt-packed anchovy fillets (optional) 1 orange 1 teaspoon pastis, such as Pernod or Ricard, or ouzo 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Step 1 Drain and rinse the olives. Roll them dry between clean towels, then pound lightly with a mallet, meat pounder or heavy saucepan. Pick out and discard the pits. You should get about three-fourths cup.

Step 2 Slice the garlic, then pound it in a mortar. By hand or in a processor, chop and combine the olives, garlic, capers and anchovy until you have a crumbly paste. Transfer it to a bowl.

Step 3Grate and work in about one-half teaspoon orange zest. Add the pastis or ouzo and the olive oil to taste.

Step 4Squeeze a few drops of orange juice into the tapenade just before serving. (Keeps well for a week or so refrigerated.)

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