1 pound firm-fleshed, skinned, very fresh fish fillets, such as halibut, mahi-mahi or white sea bass 1½ cups fresh lime juice (from 6 to 10 large limes) ½ cup fresh lemon juice (from 2 to 3 large lemons) ½ small red onion ¼ cup snipped fresh chives, cut in 1 ⁄ 8-inch pieces 1 to 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon ground sumac, more to taste ½ teaspoon Aleppo pepper, or ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes ½ teaspoon sel gris, more to taste Pita crisps or crackers for serving

Step 1 Pat the fish dry. Check for any hidden bones and remove them. Cut away blood line and any other dark patches and discard. Cut the fish across the grain into slices ⅛- to ¼- inch thick. Cut the slices into ¼- to ¾-inch pieces. Place in a glass bowl, add the citrus juices and stir to mix. Cover and refrigerate, stirring occasionally, until the fish is completely opaque, 2 to 3 hours.

Step 2 Cut the onion half in half again vertically and then cut each piece crosswise into paper-thin slices. Rinse well and soak in cold water to cover for 30 minutes. Drain well and pat dry.

Step 3Drain fish thoroughly and place in a clean bowl. Add the onion, chives, olive oil, sumac, Aleppo pepper and sel gris and toss well. Taste and adjust the seasoning as desired. Serve with pita crisps.

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