2 slender cucumbers 1 teaspoon plus 2 tablespoons butter 4 very thin slices pancetta (about 1 ounce total) Coarse sea salt and white pepper 1 tablespoon chopped chives for garnish

Step 1 Peel and trim the cucumbers. Cut in half lengthwise and scrape out seeds. Cut each half lengthwise into thirds or fourths so each strip is no more than one-half inch wide. Cut crosswise on the diagonal, alternating directions, to make small triangles.

Step 2 Melt 1 teaspoon butter in a saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and cook until crisp, about 7 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

Step 3Wipe the pan completely clean with a paper towel. Add the remaining butter, then the cucumbers. Cook quickly, stirring, until the cucumbers are just wilted but still crunchy, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and white pepper to taste. Toss with the chives. Crumble the pancetta over and serve at once.

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