1 pound mixed fresh red chiles (such as red Fresnos or jalapenos), stemmed and chopped 2 to 4 cloves garlic 1/4 cup cane or rice vinegar 1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt, more if desired 2 tablespoons palm or light brown sugar, more if desired

Step 1 In the bowl of a food processor, pulse together the chiles, garlic, vinegar, salt and sugar to form a coarse paste.

Step 2 Transfer the mixture to a non-reactive saucepan and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the aroma softens or mellows a bit, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

Step 3Blend the sauce again to form a smooth paste, thinning as desired with water.

Step 4Strain the sauce, pressing the solids through a fine mesh strainer with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon. Taste the sauce, and tweak the flavors as desired with additional salt, sugar or vinegar. Remove the sauce to a glass jar or bottle and cool completely. Refrigerate until needed.

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