2 (12-ounce) stout beers 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter 1/2 cup whole-grain mustard 2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme 2 tablespoons minced garlic (6 to 8 large cloves) 1 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 3 tablespoons honey 2 tablespoons malt vinegar 1 teaspoon Tabasco, or to taste 1 1/4 teaspoons low-sodium soy sauce Freshly ground pepper Vegetable oil for frying 4 pounds trimmed chicken wings, cut at the joints and wing tips discarded (about 3 dozen pieces) 2 to 3 cups cornstarch, for dredging

Step 1 Place the beer in a medium, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Gently simmer the beer until it is reduced to 2/3 cup, about 15 minutes (watch that the beer does not foam over the top of the pan while it is simmering). Remove from heat.

Step 2 Whisk the butter in with the beer, then the mustard, thyme, garlic and cheese. Whisk in the honey and malt vinegar, followed by the hot sauce, soy sauce and several grinds of pepper. Taste and adjust the flavorings if desired. Place the sauce in a large bowl and set aside.

Step 3Fill a 4-quart pot with frying oil to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. Heat the oil to maintain a temperature of 350 degrees.

Step 4While the oil is heating, dredge each wing in cornstarch, tossing to coat the wing completely. Shake off the excess cornstarch and set aside. For a crunchier texture, dredge the wings a second time just before frying.

Step 5When the oil is heated, begin frying the wings, several pieces at a time. Fry the wings until the skin is golden and crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain the wings on a rack and continue frying.

Step 6While the wings are still hot, toss them in the large bowl with the sauce until completely coated. Remove the wings, shaking off the excess sauce, and serve immediately.

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